Baroque Rocks’ Guide to the Great Jewellers of the 1960s and 1970s
The 1960s and 1970s jewellery renaissance produced some of the most influential jewellers of the twentieth century. During this transformative period, designers rejected traditional conventions and created a new vocabulary for modern jewellery design, treating precious metals and gemstones as sculptural materials rather than merely decorative settings.
Few designers embody this revolution more vividly than Andrew Grima, widely regarded as the ‘Father of Modern British Jewellery’. Known variously as the golden engineer, the King of Bling and a pioneer of modern jewellery design, Grima marched firmly in the vanguard of the London-based movement that redefined jewellery in the 1960s.
Grima’s work was revolutionary. Using raw mineral crystals, heavily textured gold and unconventional gemstone settings, he created jewellery that resembled miniature sculptures. Many pieces were built around unusual or uncut stones, allowing the natural form of the mineral to dictate the design. The results were bold, architectural jewels that looked unlike anything that had come before.
His influence quickly attracted the attention of royalty, tastemakers and the international jet set, becoming one of the most celebrated jewellers of his generation. His importance was cemented when he became the first living jeweller to exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum, confirming his place in design history. Today collectors eagerly seek his creations, and Andrew Grima jewellery regularly achieves record prices at auction, with pieces often soaring far beyond their estimates. A definitive reference to his legacy can be found in the book Andrew Grima: The Father of Modern Jewellery.
Another iconic London house of the era was Kutchinsky, whose exuberant designs epitomised the glamour and creativity of the 1960s and 1970s. Known for bold gold textures, vibrant gemstones and confident scale, Kutchinsky jewellery became a favourite among royalty, high society and collectors alike. The house is also famed for the celebrated Kutchinsky Egg — a magnificent tour de force of jewellery craftsmanship set with thousands of rare Argyle diamonds. A jewel of extraordinary artistry and extravagance, its current whereabouts remain unknown, adding an irresistible layer of intrigue to one of the most remarkable creations of modern British jewellery. Interest in the house’s legacy continues to grow, particularly with the forthcoming book by Serena Kutchinsky, which explores the remarkable story behind this influential jewellery dynasty.
Interestingly the legendary house of Moussaieff, when Kutchinsky eventually ceased trading, acquired the company’s archive, moulds and design heritage, preserving an important chapter of modern British jewellery history.
The period also saw the emergence of remarkable British designers such as Elizabeth Gage, whose richly textured gold jewellery and bold use of ancient coins and gemstones helped define the confident aesthetic of the era. Stuart Devlin, another influential British designer, was renowned for his sculptural gold and silver creations and extraordinary craftsmanship, producing both jewellery and decorative works that embodied the experimental spirit of the time.
Across the Atlantic, David Webb was redefining American jewellery design. Webb’s pieces were bold, architectural and unapologetically glamorous, featuring vibrant enamel, striking gemstones and sculptural gold forms that perfectly captured the confident style of the era.
Alongside these independent designers, historic maisons such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bvlgari also embraced the experimental energy of the period, producing innovative jewellery that blended heritage craftsmanship with modern aesthetics.
For collectors seeking to understand this remarkable era, the book Modern British Jewellery Designers: A Collector’s Guide by Mary Ann Wingfield remains an invaluable reference, documenting many of the designers who helped redefine British jewellery during the mid-twentieth century.
Together these visionary jewellers created what is now regarded as one of the most exciting periods in jewellery history. Their creations remain highly collectible because they represent a moment when jewellery truly became wearable art.
For collectors and aficionados alike, jewellery from the 1960s and 1970s offers not only beauty and craftsmanship but also a direct connection to the golden age of modern jewellery design — a period whose influence continues to shape the world of vintage jewellery collecting today.